Monthly Archives: February 2011

Getz to prepare for sound deadening

Right, so now the door trim is off and you can put it to one side. It should look like this:


…which means that the door itself should now look like this:


We can’t get in and put the sound deadening in with that plastic sheet in the way, so we need to remove it. Before we can there a couple of things we need to do. Firstly, there is a support screwed to the door (for the arm rest screw). It needs to come off, so remove both screws holding it up.


Put the bracket and screws aside and back to the door, we need to move the wiring around the speaker. It just hooks around the baffle with a plastic hook. Pull it gently out of the way, as below. Once out of the way, disconnect it by pressing the lever on top and sliding it away from the speaker. You’ll need to carefully feed the wires and rods through the plastic as you tear it off.


Now the plastic sheet is held on with a type of sticky goop. There is two ways to remove this. The careful way, which is getting an old piece of tough plastic (like the lid to a bolt container) and carefully scraping it off as you pull the plastic away…


…or you can try that for 10 minutes, get angry and just rip the damn thing off. Turns out the ripping seems more efficient. Either way, you should end up with just the bare metal.



Getz to remove the door trim

Next step is removing the door trim.

1) Undo the screw holding the handle in. When you unscrew it, pull the handle unit gently towards you and you will see that there are ends of two metal rods linking into the unit. These rods control the locking and opening of the door. They are held in place by two plastic clips (right side blue, left side pink). Unclip the part of the clip that holds onto the rod with a screw driver. You should see something similiar to the picture below.


Once the clips are off the rods themselves, the rods can be pushed up out of the plastic keeper. Once free the handle unit can be removed very easily – as below.


2) Remove the two screws closest to the hinge of the door. They are towards the top of the door (window sill height) and they run down the side near the hinge. They require a phillips head screwdriver.


3) Remove the two screws on the opposite side of the door (away from the hinge). These are in a similar position to the above screws. These screws have plastic washers that help hold the door trim in place.


4) Inside the handle of the door (look from above the door down) is a sneaky screw. It’s easy to remove, but don’t forget it! See picture below.


5) There is one more screw I discovered. It’s near the speaker grill on the bottom corner near the door hinge. That’s the last screw you need to remove.


6) Now that the screws are removed, you will need to pop the plastic plugs that hold the door on. You want to be firm but gentle when removing these as they are easy to break and a bastard to buy and replace. To do this, firstly locate the little slot on the very botton of the door in the middle. This is to help you prize off the door trim.


Grab that spare towel and fold it over. Now stick your slotted screwdriver in between the folds and gentle push it into the slot. Lever the door trim towards you until you hear a popping sound of one of the plugs coming out.


Then you can gently pull the trim toward you to unplug the rest and you’ve almost removed the door trim.

7) While holding the door trim there are two plugs that are for the side mirror and window (depending on features and which door – the passenger side only has one plug).


Remove these plugs by pressing the clip release…


…out of their keepers…



Getz ready

Okay, here comes the pics.

Lesson 1. Sound deadening the outer shell of the doors.

For this install, I’ll be doing this properly from the start. It’s always harder to go back and try to fix things later but sometimes it’s necessary because you’re keen to get the stereo in and to be listening to it.

So, the first thing (after the planning) is to put the sound deadening in the doors. There is a very good reason for this. Since the door is metal and fairly thin, the sound waves bounce around and can cancel out some frequencies. It also means that the sound will be a bit hollow. With the sound deadening, it absorbs the extra sound and makes the door itself almost like a subwoofer enclosure. This means that the bass and mid-range will be more punchy and responsive and the overall sound will be better. Even with the crappy stock speakers, this will make it sound a bit better, but with new speakers – awesome.

Anyway, there are 5 surfaces to a door. Working from the outside of the car in, the first surface it the exterior of the door. This is the shiny bit that the world sees. Since we don’t want to stick stuff on the outside of the car, I won’t be talking about this part of the door during this tutorial.

The next surface is the outer shell it’s the other side of the above surface that the world never sees. So, if we need to stick something, here’s the place to do it. This surface is essentially a large thin plate of metal that is really good at letting most sound through and reflecting some sound back where we don’t want it. It’s also the surface I’ll be covering in this tutorial (no pun intended).

The next surface in the inner shell which is the next metal surface and the metal part closest to the car. The space inbetween the inner and outer shell is usually filled with a window, wiring, metal rods (for opening and locking the door), dirt and the coil side of the speaker. This surface has huge gaps (called service holes) that we will cover in a future tutorial.

Next comes the door trim. The door trim is the plastic piece that sits on the car interior side of the door. It has a few jobs like hiding the bare metal doors, protecting the wiring in the door and providing a place to put things like handles, speaker grills, window controls, etc. The door side of the trim are the outer trim and inner trim. The inner trim is the one that you see, the outer trim presses against the inner shell of the door. I’ll be using the above terms throughout this tutorial, so I wanted to make sure it’s clear which parts I’m talking about.

So, the first part of doing this is preparation. Obviously, it’s best to do this under cover, a garage is good, and make sure you have plenty of light and room. You’ll need to be able to have the door fully open. Also, you will need a bunch of tools. Here is a list of some of the tools you’ll need.

– Phillips Head Screwdriver
– Stanley Knife
– Sharpie (permanent marker)
– Ruler
– Slotted Screwdriver
– Some old towels are handy to have
– Tar and Grease Remover (I used De-solve it for the first time and seemed to work well)
– A few rags
– Crappy Old Clothes to wear

Alright, now I’m doing this to a fairly new car that belongs to a friend of mine, so I want it to look either the same as it was when I got it, or better. You don’t want to have wires and gaff tape everywhere – go to Strathfield Car Radio if you want that ;) It’s a good idea to have a camera handy because it helps to know how everything should look once you’ve put it back together.

Having said that, here’s a picture of what I started with and how it should look at the end.


The next thing you want is the fruit of your research – ie Battle Plans. Now that you’ve got all the instructions on how to remove the door trim, make sure they’re handy so you can refer to them.


Next, because I want to protect my knees and the car interior, I’ve grabbed a couple of towels. I’ve put one on the seat so it doesn’t get dirty, another which I can fold up and kneel on and a third to have in case (the third will come in handy a little later on). Also, I have put the immediate tools I’ll need on the drivers side floor so I can just grab them. Unless you have a small child handy to use as a gopher, it’s easiest to have them within reach.


Okay, so now I’m ready to actually start doing things. Since I’ve rambled on a lot already, I’ll start a new post to get down to business.


String you along

So, I have finally finished folding 1000 paper cranes. Woohoo!

The next step, which I didn’t think of initially, is to string them together to make it possible to hang/display them. To do this, I’ve decided to put them on fishing line and separate them with crimps. This is how I’m doing it.

1) This is what 1000 paper canes look like (well, just under in this photo, but you get the idea).

I’ve put them in bags by colour so that I can string them up evenly. I also needed to count them (and I put the number on the front with a Sharpie) to know how many I needed to make to complete the 1000 and still have roughly the same amount of each colour.

2) I started with a test set of one of each colour (I made these separately to the 1000 so it wouldn’t impact the total number). Then I also gathered the items I’d need: Fishing line, needle, pliers and crimps.

The fishing line was from a discount store and around $2 – it’s the thinnest I could find. The pliers are from my tool box, the needles from my sewing box. The crimps I bought from a bead shop in the city – – they were about $18 for 500. I bought 2 lots plus a small bag of 50 to cover mistakes/losses/etc. By the way, the ladies there were awesome – I recommend them for anything crafty! (What that sounds bad…)

3) I threaded the fishing line through one of the crimps and then made a loop and fed it back through again. Then I took the pliers and flattened the crimp so that it held. This loop is only small, but will form the bottom of the string of cranes.

4)  I then took the needle and threaded the fishing line through the eye. I didn’t need to worry too much about how much I pulled through as I was going to trim the end anyway. Oh, and while I think of it, I had 100 m of line and therefore I found it’s easier to pull too much off the reel than be short – you can always trim it later. Each string makes about a metre and a half, so use about 2m to start with.

Once the line was on the needle, I then found there was a small hole in the bottom of the crane through which I pushed the needle. Then by wiggling the needle, I found the top point of the crane’s “back” and pushed the needle through there. I pulled the needle and the line through and let the crane fall down to the crimp in the step above.

5) Once the crane is on the line, the next step is to make the space between the crane and the next crimp for the next crane to sit on. To do this, I guessed about a finger width apart, so I held the edge of my finger around level with the crane’s tail and then threaded a crimp on to the line and let it fall to onto of my finger. Once there, I could crimp it and it will hold the next crane up.

6) Repeat steps 4 and 5 until you have the final crane on. Then for the end, leave some space and then do step 3, allowing a much larger sized loop. This loop will be used to hang the string on something, so it should be a decent size.

I have worked out that I can put 2 lots of each colour on one thread (about 1.5m long). This means I will need to do 38 of them and then another with 22 cranes on it. I lot to do, but not as bad as folding 1000 cranes!

By the way, the folding of the 1000 cranes took place over a two week period – that means I was folding for an average of 3.5 hours EVERY DAY!!!

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Posted by on February 17, 2011 in Paper Cranes


Saab stereo – more door stuff

2. Install spacer and speaker.From previous tuts, I’ve made the spacers, but to put the behind the trim they need to be a little smaller. So I’ve cut the spacer in half (thinner) and glued it to the original door spacer…

I had to butcher it a bit to fit it in nicely, but a lick of paint hides everything…

Then, the next step is to cut some closed cell foam to fit between the spacer and the speaker to hide any imperfections. This is the finished product with holes cut for the screws – if you want step by step on this let me know…

Next, make sure your wires are ready to connect and bolt the spacer onto the door.

Next step is to obviously install the speaker – remember to put the foam on first.

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Posted by on February 14, 2011 in Sleeper Style 9-3 Saab, Stereo


Saab Stereo – Sound deaden door

Okay, it’s been a while since I’ve updated here. The boot is now sound proofed, but I needed to make sure the doors were done properly, so I’ve gone back and redone them. I also decided that for a Sleeper style, I really needed to get the speakers behind the stock grills.So here’s the project-

1. Dynamat the outer shell of the door
2. Install spacer and speaker
3. Dynamat the inside of the door
4. Replace door trim with grill

And here’s the pictures…

1. Dynamat the outer shell.

Just so that you know, I cut up decent sized strips and fed them in through the services holes to give the outer shell of the door 100% coverage with the Dynamat. Because of the size of the door, we’re looking at about 2 and a half sheets… so about $75 worth of Dynamat. Seems a lot, but the soound benefits are amazing.

Also, because I have done so much on the outer skin, I won’t need to cover 100% on the inner skin.

Anyway, here’s a close up…

And then add a Dynazorb!

So, the Dynazorb at about $40 each is a bit extravagant. However, the sound difference is amazing and it actually makes a difference. This means that all up I’ve probably spent close to $150 per door just for sound deadening, but it makes my $300 speakers sound like $600 speakers. So, imagine what $1000 speakers will sound like…

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Posted by on February 14, 2011 in Sleeper Style 9-3 Saab, Stereo


Saab Stereo – proper

Quick update.

Unfortunately with things like car stereos, it’s always more important to get the damn things in and enjoy them then to make sure it’s 100% perfect.

However, that doesn’t mean that you can’t go back and make sure that everything is done properly.

To this end, I wanted to show you some good tips in making sure that everything is well set up to ensure you get the best sound quality.

Below is a photo of one of the crossovers in the front. The crossover links the door speaker and the tweeter in the dash.

You’ll notice a few things that I’ve done that just make everything better.

Firstly, all wires are labelled. When you have to move wires around, or replace components, it’s important to be able to identify which wire is which. Believe me, adding a little bit of electrical tape to a wire could mean saving hours later on.

Secondly, the crossover itself is clearly marked. Not only is this good practice, but it means that if anyone else ever has to work on my stereo they know exactly what everything is and what is does.

Next, you’ll see that I’ve put “spade” connectors on each of the wires. This means that the connection is perfect. The metal connector (shaped like a U) fits in flush with the screw in clamp and makes sure the connection is solid.

To put the spades on, I first made sure the wires were clean and tidy and then pushed them into the spade terminal. I then crimped it to hold the wire in place (I just used a pair of pliers), and then I soldered the top of the wire so that the connection is complete.

To further reduce the chance of the connection coming loose, I have put heat shrink over the top of the spade connector and wire so that it all holds nicely together. You can probably see where I went a little too close with the lighter

So, all this may seem like overkill, and it is. However, I know that it’s properly set up, I won’t have to do it again and I won’t have any problems from the connection.

I highly recommend that you do this. Your Saab was made with quality workmanship, so you should do the same with any modifications.

Edit: Rather than make a new post, I thought I’d just add to this one since it seemed to fit.

Below is a couple of pictures of how I actually join wires. It may help if you haven’t done this sort of thing before, but you don’t have to be a master to be able to do things well.

I always talk about the twist/solder/heatshrink method of joining wires. This is one of the best ways to do this.

Basically, get the wires you want to join and strip the ends. Leave about 1 – 1.5 cm of wire exposed on either side of the join. Then twist the two lots of bare wires together so that they are entwined as much as possible. Also, you’ll notice in this photo that it’s necessary to put the heatshrink over the wires BEFORE you join them. Just slip them over the end and they’ll sit there until you’re finished soldering. You can cut them to the required length beforehand to make it easier.

The next step is to put solder around the join to help hold it together. This will make the join stronger, but the conductive element of the solder will also make sure that the current still flows through fine. Less is more, but you need enough to make sure it holds. Huge gobs of solder won’t help, but just put enough to bond them.

The final step is to move the heatshrink into place and gently heat. Firstly, make sure the solder has cooled before doing this, otherwise the heatshrink will catch on it and shrink immediately. You can use a variety of things to make it shrink. The easiest is probably a cigarette lighter, just wave the flame over the heatshrink, turning the wire as you go so it shrinks evenly. You can also use a blowtorch, heat gun or hairdryer.

This is one of the best methods to make sure your joins are solid and allow the current to pass through well. If every wire in your set up is like this, you’ll find the whole system will actually sound better as there are no loose connections slowing down the current.

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Posted by on February 14, 2011 in Sleeper Style 9-3 Saab, Stereo

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