Getz POWER! Part 2

09 Sep

Right. Now that we have a way through the firewall, we really need some sort of tool that will help get the power cable through. There is one – it’s called a grabber. You push it through and “grab” the cable and then pull it back through the hole.

I don’t have one. Neither do most people. So I made my own.

Three coat hangers cut and then straightened out with pliers, then taped together. Hey, it’ll work. Now, the theory is that you stick the coat hanger tool into the grommet the same way that you did the screw driver (same angle and everything), and in theory, it should come out the same.

Once the coat hanger tool sticks through into the cabin, it’s a matter of undoing the end piece of tape, sticking the cable in there with the three tines surrounding the cable, tape it all up and pull it back through – gently.

So, as you can see in the above picture, the sticking through bit went okay. Again the key is to be gentle but firm. In the photo you can also see how I’d coaxed some of the grommet out of the housing. We’ll put that back later when the cable is in there.

Excitedly running around to the cabin, I saw that it had indeed made it through. That’s exciting stuff right there. Now that it’s through, all we need to do is attach the cable as I described.

And there it is, all nicely taped up and ready for the journey. If you have two people available, it’s a good idea to have one person pushing/guiding and the other pulling the cable through. It was only me, so I just had to be careful.

Success!! You can see the cable poking out of the grommet now! Joy and happiness ensued! This means we have the cable through – the hard part is done, but there is still work to do.

Cut the tip off the power cord (close to the coat hanger wire as possible) to release my marvelous coat hanger machine. Pull through as much cable as you think you would need and then try to push the grommet back into place as much as you can. You’ll need to next run the cable around the engine bay to get it to the battery.

This is the path I chose (above) and it seems to work okay. The golden rule here is to keep it tidy. Tidy means cable ties. Tidy means not burning on the engine. Tidy means not in the way of other machinery.

Once you’ve established the path cable tie it in place so you don’t lose it.

Now, I haven’t yet spoken about fuses. All electrical devices in you car should have a fuse in place. The idea is that if there is a power surge, the fuse takes one for the team. However, if your car gets hit and the power cord gets severed, well… let’s just say it would be shocking. The fuse in that instance trips and your life is saved. Because of the last reason, “they” recommend that the fuse is within 30 cm of the connection to the battery. The closer the better, though.

This is a fuse holder stand that I kinda threw together very quickly. It’s a bit of scrap metal that is screwed near the battery. You may want to be more imaginative, but this is fine. Make sure you get the right holder and fuse that is right for the power going through your car. But, MOUNT the fuse holder – don’t just cable it somewhere to hang.

This is how it all looks when in place. Notice I haven’t connected to the power as yet, that will be the very last thing I do. But this has all worked out nicely and is now sitting in the engine bay.

Okay, the above photo shows where I’m up to right now. The power is connected (red wire), black is the grounding. They are both connected to the amp, but not the battery – I’m just getting it ready. Also I haven’t yet done the ground from the amp. It will connect under the handbrake, and you can just see it at the top of  photo above.

So, that’s it for the time being. I had to stop the install there. However, next time it’s all about the head unit. 🙂


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