It’s been a while since I’ve done any more work on the stereo in the Getz. However, almost done.
I really wanted to get it finished this time, but time, as always, is my enemy. I did however get a few other bits finished off and only have pretty much two things to do left – hook up the speakers to the amp and turn it on.
I did however have a couple of things that I did need to finalise before I do that: Connecting the ground, connecting the remote wire, connect the sub wiring to the amp and too the sub.
Connecting the ground
First step is to get everything ready. I always like to vacuum before I start as it’s easier to find dropped bolts, etc. I’ve also got the yoga mat down to help when I have to kneel on the concrete. And of course the socket set ready to take the drivers chair out. Once that’s done, I need to remove the centre console (see previous posts on how to do this)…
Okay, so as you can see, centre console is off and the chair is out and I’m ready to start work.
To connect the ground, I have decided to use the existing ground bolt for other equipment. I could find somewhere better and drill or stuff, but I think this should be fine. If I find there is a lot of interference then I may need to look at positioning it somewhere else, but this spot should be okay.
The spot is under the handbrake, here’s a close up.
You can see the ground wire from the amp just sitting there – that needs to go on the bolt next to the P04 labelled bolt. It’s a little hard to get to, so I removed the switch that holds the wire sending the message to turn on the hand brake light. It’s unplugged in this picture, but is directly above the bolt I want to use. There’s just a small screw holding it in – remove and don’t lose.
The photo above shows said screw and switch from the handbrake removed. The biggest thing you should notice here is that there is a lot of paint around the hole where the grounding bolt goes. This presents a problem as the paint interferes with how solid the grounding will be. Therefore, we need to make a nice bit section around the bolt hole that has no paint.
That should do it. I’ve tried to get as much off as I can and from there, it should make for a better ground. Fortunately, this is all under the centre console, so no one will see it if it’s a little messy. 🙂
Next I want to put the ring of the amp ground onto the same bolt as what’s already there so I’ve put some washers in to space them out a little. I prefer to put a nut in there, but I didn’t have any that fit, so the washer will do fine.
What you see in the photo above is (from top down) bolt, washer, smaller washer, amp ring, washer, existing ground then all of that is attached to the body of the car. That should do it.
The remote wire makes sure that the amp is turned on only when the stereo is turned on. I couldn’t find an actual remote wire, but I did find the accessories wire on the back of the factory stereo. This is just as good. It means that the amp will only turn on when the key is in the car and turned to either “Accessories” or start. This means the amp won’t drain the battery while just sitting there.
I had to identify the wire first – it turns out it’s the thin dark green one with the black stripe as you can see in this photo…
Basically, what I need to do is to run a wire from the accessories wire to the amp. This means splitting the current wire and then joining in another wire to go to the amp. Since it’s really tight in there, I’ve decided to split the wire, extend it and then join it to the amp wire.
First step (as always) is to prepare.
I have cut a short piece of wire, and then put some heatshrink on it, ready to join it on. I then also got the soldering iron, solder and wire strippers ready. The next step was to cut the wire…
(see top and bottom of the pic – green wire)
Then strip the green wires, twist, solder and heatshrink the extensions on (see other posts for step by step on this). It should then look like the following picture:
Next we want to connect the extensions with the remote wire to the amp. Firstly, thread the amp wire through to the amp from the head unit so that it’s ready to join up. Then twist the two extensions in place and then join the third amp wire in place…
And then once all that’s connected up, connect the other end to the amp, thus…
And finally, check this all works by turning the key to accessories. If the stereo still works, at least you have the connection closed again. Once the amp is connected, we’ll see if it works then.
In the boot, I put a few wires through to connect to the actual sub woofer. These wires needed to be connected to the sub itself. Here is a pictorial version of how I did that…