The final step of completing the Getz stereo install is to connect the amp to the power. In theory that should be it and everything will be ready to go…
Previously, we have put the power cable through the firewall, attached a fuse and mounted it near the battery. The connection has been sitting there cable tied, waiting for us to connect it.
The extra grounding has already been done (as you can see on the negative side) but the power needs to be connected to the positive terminal. To do this, the cover needs to be removed. Conveniently there is a bolt holding another connection, so you can use this to also attach the positive cable. It’s pretty much as easy as undoing the nut and slipping the eyelet over the bolt. Then reattach the nut. I disconnected the battery as I felt this was a bit safer – just make sure you’re careful!
So now all that’s left to do is to turn the whole thing on and listen to the AWESOME POWER OF THE NEW STEREO!!!
….except that when I did that, it didn’t work. The factory head unit wouldn’t play.
[insert dramatic music]
I worked out pretty quickly that because I has disconnected the battery, the head unit had kicked in the security control and required a password to reactivate.
Where the hell do you get the password from and how do you enter it!!??!!
Luckily, I had done lots of research prior to even starting and was able to put my finger on the answer very quickly. The answer is quite simply this:
1. Slide the Head Unit out (again, and instructions are in previous posts)
2. Read the serial number (from memory under the bar code) – I’ll use 09243523049523 for this example
3. Take the last four digits of the serial number – 9523 for this example
4. Add 1212 – Eg. 9 + 1 = 0, 5 + 2 = 7, 2 + 1 = 3, 3 + 2 = 5, therefore the password is 0735
5. Use the “1” button on the head unit to enter the number. Keep pressing it until it reads (in this case) 0.
6. Use the “2” button on the head unit to enter the number. Keep pressing it until it reads (in this case) 7.
7. Use the “3” button on the head unit to enter the number. Keep pressing it until it reads (in this case) 3.
8. Use the “4” button on the head unit to enter the number. Keep pressing it until it reads (in this case) 5.
9. Press the number “5” button to accept the password.
I did all of this and it worked! Everything was fine.
I turned on the stereo and played a cd and it sounded great. Not AMAZING, but great. That meant I had to tune the amp a little.
To tune the amp, all I did was find the two tuning pots (little dials that require a screwdriver to turn) and move them. I thought the sub was a little loud for the car, so I turned it down a fair bit. I also turned down the gain.
The idea behind the gain is to turn the dial to about medium and then turn the volume on the stereo up until it starts to distort. Turn the gain down a little and the stereo up until you get to a point where the top limit of the stereo is just distorting – then turn the gain down slightly. This means that even at full volume, you can’t blow the speakers.
You should also tune the sub to suit the sound as well. I found that the sub was too loud and drowned out the music, so I turned it substantially down. I then played with different volumes and adjusted the sub volume until it seemed about right.
I did find that the sub seemed to be a little off in relation to the music and this is quite often cause by being “out of phase”. Some amps have a switch to change the “phase” on the sub, but this one didn’t. The difference in the phase, put simply, is whether the speaker goes positive to negative or negative to positive. I got around this by changing the wires on the sub itself. This reversed the phase and sounded MUCH better.
After having made these tweaks, I tried it again and now it sounds AMAZING! (Well for the money spent anyway).
I also recommend making these adjustment as far away from houses as possible so that you don’t get hassled or disturb anyone.
THINGS TO NOTE
I have used the “lego block” connectors behind the head unit. This isn’t ideal, but it’s okay. The reason I did this is so that in future if the owner wants to replace the head unit, the wires are still there and as long as they have ever been (which is quite short). If the wires were joined and soldered, etc, they would need to be cut and rejoined – more difficult, the shorter the wires are.
There could probably be more dynamat applied in the front doors, roof, and boot, etc. I did pretty much a bit more than minimum, but it did the job.
One of the fuses in the amp was missing when I bought it. I replaced BOTH fuses (25a) with fuses that have a little LED light in them that glows if the fuse is blown. They only cost a few cents extra and I thought that would be a cool feature, making it easy to see why the stereo isn’t working.
I would also recommend that some sort of cover be put over the sub speaker since there is a good chance it could get damaged in the boot. However, if the owner is careful it isn’t that necessary.