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Monthly Archives: July 2012

Getz complete.

The final step of completing the Getz stereo install is to connect the amp to the power. In theory that should be it and everything will be ready to go…

Previously, we have put the power cable through the firewall, attached a fuse and mounted it near the battery. The connection has been sitting there cable tied, waiting for us to connect it.

The extra grounding has already been done (as you can see on the negative side) but the power needs to be connected to the positive terminal. To do this, the cover needs to be removed. Conveniently there is a bolt holding another connection, so you can use this to also attach the positive cable. It’s pretty much as easy as undoing the nut and slipping the eyelet over the bolt. Then reattach the nut. I disconnected the battery as I felt this was a bit safer – just make sure you’re careful!

So now all that’s left to do is to turn the whole thing on and listen to the AWESOME POWER OF THE NEW STEREO!!!

….except that when I did that, it didn’t work. The factory head unit wouldn’t play.

[insert dramatic music]

I worked out pretty quickly that because I has disconnected the battery, the head unit had kicked in the security control and required a password to reactivate.

Where the hell do you get the password from and how do you enter it!!??!!

Luckily, I had done lots of research prior to even starting and was able to put my finger on the answer very quickly. The answer is quite simply this:

1. Slide the Head Unit out (again, and instructions are in previous posts)

2. Read the serial number (from memory under the bar code) – I’ll use 09243523049523 for this example

3. Take the last four digits of the serial number – 9523 for this example

4. Add 1212 – Eg. 9 + 1 = 0, 5 + 2 = 7, 2 + 1 = 3, 3 + 2 = 5, therefore the password is 0735

5. Use the “1” button on the head unit to enter the number. Keep pressing it until it reads (in this case) 0.

6. Use the “2” button on the head unit to enter the number. Keep pressing it until it reads (in this case) 7.

7. Use the “3” button on the head unit to enter the number. Keep pressing it until it reads (in this case) 3.

8. Use the “4” button on the head unit to enter the number. Keep pressing it until it reads (in this case) 5.

9. Press the number “5” button to accept the password.

I did all of this and it worked! Everything was fine.

I turned on the stereo and played a cd and it sounded great. Not AMAZING, but great. That meant I had to tune the amp a little.

FINE TUNING

To tune the amp, all I did was find the two tuning pots (little dials that require a screwdriver to turn) and move them. I thought the sub was a little loud for the car, so I turned it down a fair bit. I also turned down the gain.

The idea behind the gain is to turn the dial to about medium and then turn the volume on the stereo up until it starts to distort. Turn the gain down a little and the stereo up until you get to a point where the top limit of the stereo is just distorting – then turn the gain down slightly. This means that even at full volume, you can’t blow the speakers.

You should also tune the sub to suit the sound as well. I found that the sub was too loud and drowned out the music, so I turned it substantially down. I then played with different volumes and adjusted the sub volume until it seemed about right.

I did find that the sub seemed to be a little off in relation to the music and this is quite often cause by being “out of phase”. Some amps have a switch to change the “phase” on the sub, but this one didn’t. The difference in the phase, put simply, is whether the speaker goes positive to negative or negative to positive. I got around this by changing the wires on the sub itself. This reversed the phase and sounded MUCH better.

After having made these tweaks, I tried it again and now it sounds AMAZING! (Well for the money spent anyway).

I also recommend making these adjustment as far away from houses as possible so that you don’t get hassled or disturb anyone.

THINGS TO NOTE

I have used the “lego block” connectors behind the head unit. This isn’t ideal, but it’s okay. The reason I did this is so that in future if the owner wants to replace the head unit, the wires are still there and as long as they have ever been (which is quite short). If the wires were joined and soldered, etc, they would need to be cut and rejoined – more difficult, the shorter the wires are.

There could probably be more dynamat applied in the front doors, roof, and boot, etc. I did pretty much a bit more than minimum, but it did the job.

One of the fuses in the amp was missing when I bought it. I replaced BOTH fuses (25a) with fuses that have a little LED light in them that glows if the fuse is blown. They only cost a few cents extra and I thought that would be a cool feature, making it easy to see why the stereo isn’t working.

I would also recommend that some sort of cover be put over the sub speaker since there is a good chance it could get damaged in the boot. However, if the owner is careful it isn’t that necessary.

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Hyundai Getz finished

Well, now I didn’t think it would ever come to this, but I have finally finished the stereo install in the Getz. It’s been almost a year and a half, but the end result was worth it. It should also be said that I haven’t had access to the car the whole time and every time I did work on it I would have to put it back together to return it.

Anyway, last I left the car, everything was pretty much ready to go, but the amp was being fully bypassed so the driver still had music. The last step was to connect everything to the amp and turn it on. Now, the scary thing is that, in theory, everything has been set up correctly and I just have to connect it and all is good. However, in reality it rarely goes that way. Let’s see how well I set it up and how close I get…

The first thing I did when I got the car back was to remove the front seat. Not really necessary, but a lot easier to work on the amp that way. I’ve only done it 100 times now so it only took a few seconds. Once removed, this is what I was looking at…

.The next step is to get ready to do all the wiring connections. It’s always easier to have everything at hand, rather than needing to leave what you’re doing to get a tool. The photo below shows all the things you need to make the connections.

From left to right…

– Empty container with bolts and other small pieces in it. This makes it easy to find things

– Ratchet socket thing. This isn’t actually necessary for the wiring, but I used it to take the chair out.

– Heat shrink. These are the blue and red strips. We’ll be cutting these to put around the joined wires.

– Scissors. You’ll need these to cut the heat shrink.

– Wire Stripping Tool. This is worth the $5 investment since it just makes things easier when stripping the wires.

– Light. Unless you have heaps of natural light, it’s good to see what you’re doing.

Outside the car, left to right…

– Yoga/camping mat. This is a couple of dollars from a dodgy shop and saves your knees when you need to kneel next to the car. This is maybe one of the best purchases I have ever made.

– Solder. You’ll need some of this to solder the wire joins together. A roll lasts forever.

– Soldering Iron. This is to melt the solder onto the wires and is plugged in heating up while you get everything else ready. Just keep the tip away from wires and the mat.

– Adidas Gazelles. Essential for looking cool while you work on the car.

Now that everything is ready, I noticed that the wires are a little short and could do with extending a little to ensure there’s no pulling and breaking. I needed to cut a little extra to join everything up. Therefore I cut enough pieces to do this and put them together in sets – the round wires are for negative and the square wires are for positive.

These wires will be to go from the amp to the speakers so we need to find the wires that are labelled to go to the speakers and connect them to the amp. The first thing to do is to put the heat shrink onto the wire you’re going to join. The sub wires are already connected to the amp, but the fronts are not. There will be four wires, left + and – and right + and -. Strip both ends and then twist, join and solder (see photo below). Once joined, pull the heat shrink over them and heat.

The amp has written on it which wires go to where and it’s just a matter of making sure the wire with the right label goes to the right connection on the amp. We won’t be able to test this until the end, so check twice. When screwing down the connection, try to get a bit of the plastic wire cover in there as well so that it’s less likely to get pulled out.

Once all four amp-to-speaker wires are in it should look like this. Try to keep them all together so we can cable tie them neatly later on.

The next step is to connect the wires from the head unit to the amp. This is a little difficult since they need to connect to the harness. In this case, the harness is above the key that shows which wire is which and the amp is bolted to the floor. Therefore I thought it would be easier to rewrite the legend to ensure I have the right wires connecting. I’ve used an old cardboard box and made sure I could check off which ones I’ve done.

Next step is to get everything ready for joining. Firstly, cut up some heat shrink and put that on one side of the wires. Next, strip the ends of all the wires (there should be eight). From there you can check which ones connect and then twist, solder and heat shrink them. Below is a progress shot and the finished product.

Note the cable ties to keep everything nicely in place.

All that’s left to do now is to connect the amp up to power and to turn it on! Lets hope everything is connected properly…

 

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