It’s been a while since I’ve posted some nice photos, so I thought I’d put some up…
Category Archives: Sleeper Style 9-3 Saab
I have a lot of photos here of the interior of the car and the engine bay, but I have realised that I haven’t got pictures of how it looks on the outside! So, here are a couple….
Okay, this is a quick tutorial on how to change the upper idler pulley – ghetto style.
Firstly, the reason this would need to be changed is due to the bearing inside the pulley getting worn and making noise. If it goes too far it can seize up and happily wreck your engine. I was alerted to the fact that it needed to be changed by the whining noise it made, which turned out to be the alternator bearing, but I’m pretty sure this one needed to be changed as well.
Anyway, the way I found out was to get a plastic flexible tube (that’s ghetto, right?) and stick one end to your ear, the other end to the idler pulley. You can then work out which bearing is the one giving you problems. Before I changed mine it was very noisy, afterwards it wasn’t. You can also use a rigid metal tube, but I think it’s just dangerous if you are the slightest bit clumsy.
On to the tutorial. Step one is to remove the air box. Not a big deal, there are three bolts holding it down, just take the nuts off and it should lift out with a little bit of effort. Once out, move it to one side (don’t need to disconnect it) and you’ll see the upper pulleys…
The next step is to loosen the belt and move it to the side so we can change the idler pulley (just visible in the above photo on the left hand side). To loosen the belt, there is a tension release thing just to the left (in my pic above) of the belt – behind the engine on the belt side. There is a square whole that you insert a socket extension bar into to lever it back and forth.
However, it wouldn’t be very ghetto if it was that easy, right? So I don’t have an extension bar (I went and bought one after this, by the way), so I had to improvise…
Yes, that a socket rachet handle thing with a big-ass spanner looped around it. Hey, it gave me the leverage to pull the tensioner toward me and loosen the belt. I know it’s literally putting a round peg in a square hole, but hey this IS supposed to be ghetto, right?
Anyway, when you’ve finished judging me (although notice where the spanner is made), pull that ghetto lever (or the extension bar if you’re sensible) towards you and the front of the car. This will loosen the belt and allow you to slip it off to the side.
Belt is on…
Belt is off…
(Notice the padding I put in so that the ghetto lever wouldn’t scratch the car too much? Pipe insulation.)
So, now that the belt is off, take the opportunity to move the other pulleys around a bit. If you hear a dry kind of grinding sound as you move them, you may need to replace those too.
Anyway, just grab a socket ratchet thing to undo the bolt….. oh. Small problem. We used that for the tensioner. Okay, now here is the bit of a drawback to my ghetto lever – when you take the belt off, the tensioner moves back a little. Fine with the extension bar, it fits in. However, the ghetto lever takes a fair bit to move it back into place again.
Moving on regardless, undo the bolt on the upper idler pulley…
Take it off…
Whack the new one on…
Tighten it up…
And put the belt back on.
Obviously, you’ll need to pull the tensioner back to refit the belt. I suggest that you put it on at the idler pulley. I found that the easiest. Check the belt is okay and properly in place. Give the belt a squirt with belt dressing if you have it and spray some wd-40 around as well – although you may not have this stuff or you wouldn’t be reading a “ghetto” thread, would you?
Replace the air box, write down when you replaced the pulley and pack up tools.
I just wanted to put a final update on this tutorial. I went ahead and ordered the new cabin filter and installed it as per these instructions. There was a noticeable difference in the amount of air coming into the car – and no more leaks.
Below are a couple of photos showing how the new air filter looks and how it probably should be most of the time – I recommend a regular check and replace. The first photo is a nice comparison between old and new…
Next we’ll need to replace the parts. Ensure the new cabin filter is in – or clean the old one up as much as possible to replace later (like I did). Next, give the secondary covery (the smaller one) a good wipe over and slip it back in – it’s pretty obvious where it goes and it really just sits there.
Next, the “Elephant’s Trunk” can go back in place. Find the holw that you took it out of…
And squeeze it back in place. Find the widest bit through so it hangs down, then pull it back towards you until it stops on the lip. Check around the holw to ensure it’s in place and push any part that came through and shouldn’t have back with your finger.
Next, slide the outer cover in place and affix with the metal clips. As you put it on, remember to feed the water tube through.
Then replace the rubber guard along the metal lip…
Now put the wiper assemblies back on (remembering the left and right side and putting them in the right spot).
Tighten up the nuts and we’re almost done.
The last thing you need to do (and don’t forget this one!) is to reconnect the hose for the window washer. Clip it back on in reverse of how you took it off, and then the connection pushes neatly into the outer cover.
Close the bonnet (hood), wash your hands and crack a beer. You deserve it.
And once that’s out, it reveals the source of the water clog….
I believe that my problem is that the water is pooling in this area so clogged by leaves, and then flowing into the cabin filter (the cabin filter is that disgusting black thing in the middle) and down the tubes into the foot well.
The next step is to remove as much of the leaves and debris as much as possible so that none of it falls into the air conditioning tubes while we fix this.
Next we need to remove the cabin filter. There are two clips, one on the left and one on the right. Undo the clip (gently lift it up from the lip) on the right side…
And then unclip the one on the left…
Then slide the cabin filter out in the opposite direction of the wiper motor. It will easily slide out and it’s at this point you insert the new one. Give the seating a bit of a wipe first to ensure there’s no more dirt getting in.
This is what my cabin filter looked like when I pulled it out, and the container next to it is the leaves I pulled out. It’s a 1.8 litre (maybe half a gallon?) ice cream container that I filled with detritus!
Alright, next is the “elephant trunk” piece that everyone is talking about. I was worried about this, since I hadn’t seen anything like that, but I found it!! Mine was in the middle of the car, on the firewall…
It’s easy to remove, just pull on it (no jokes please) and it will easily come away (I said no jokes!).
Once out, you’ll see how full of mud and leaves it is…
Empty it, flush it out with water, give it a wipe on the inside and it should look like this:
Next, give the whole area areally good cleanup and we’re ready to put it all back together.
As you can see it’s been raining a bit, which is why I noticed the water. Best to do this BEFORE it pours rain to fix the cause.
Anyway, first step was to open the bonnet and remove the rubber rain guard into the engine bay.
The rubber bit just pulls off and it isn’t difficult at all. But you need to remove it to get to a couple of clips. Put it to the side and move on to the next step.
The next step is to remove the wiper blade assembly. This is slightly different on each model, but mine’s a 1999 9-3 S so this is how mine’s set up. I’m in Australia, so things may be slightly different since my car is RHD.
Undo both wiper blade assemblies with a 13 mm socket (1/2 inch works as well)…
…and put them aside. I have a couple of cardboard tags that help me remember which part goes where when I do both sides of the car, so I used them to remember which side the assembly goes on.
This will leave the cover that needs to come off. Once the wipers are removed, it should look like this…
Before we remove the cover, make sure you disconnect the hose going to the water jets. This is pretty easy, just pull on the tube and disconnect it. Remove it on the engine side, not the bonnet side as there is a washer type thing in between and you need to slide the cover over the tube.
Next, to remove the cover, you’ll need to lift the clips up. I only had two clips (left and right) and they popped up pretty easy. Lift them up so the clips are sitting on top of the metal ledge. Pry one side out a little first…
…then you can pull the whole thing to the side and remove it entirely. Put it aside somewhere safe so you don’t step on it.
This will reveal the inner cover (as above). I’ll continue on with this in the next post, but you can already see there’s a few leaves in there…
I had originally mounted the tweeters in the space from the factory speakers on the dash. I held them in place by bolting foam in the hole and the tweeter sat in the middle. However, due to the harsh Aussie sun, the foam warped a little and the tweeters moved down into the cavity enough to distort the sound.
The solution was to install a mounting plate and put the tweeters on them.
First step was to cut the plate itself. I used about 15mm MDF and traced a line around the original stock speaker. I then cut them out (them = 2, left and right sides) and tested that they fit alright.
You can also see that I’ve cut the hole for the speaker cable to go through. I used a hole cutting bit so that there was ample room for the cable to go through. The tweeter will sit on the whole so it won’t be visible anyway.
Next I jammed that sucker up in the spot where it was to sit to make sure it fit okay and to test how the speakers would sound and where I should position them. The only trick to this was that I had to pull most of the dash apart.
If you care, that meant the glove box removed, 2 air con pipes (on the passenger side), kick panels on both sides of the main console, under the steering wheel panel and fuse cover, and two air con pipes (on the drivers side). The whole back seat was full of bits of my dash!
Anyway, once the mounting plates were in place, I sat the tweeters on them to see how they would sound. I moved them around a bit as I played music and tried to work out the best way to face them.
When I found the perfect spot, I drew around them and then replaced the grill that covers them on the dash to make sure that they fit…. they didn’t. It turned out that the plate was too high, so I need to drop it a good inch or so.
After running through several scenarios in my mind, I decided the best thing, all considered, would be to have the plate suspended by long screws as the plate didn’t need to support a lot of weight and were pretty snug in there anyway. So the next step was to drill the holes for the screws.
I used the original speaker once again to make sure the holes were in the right place. Then I got the “tweeter keeper” and marked the holes to mount it on top. Then, I drilled.
Once the holes were drilled, the next step was to mount them. I should note that I did the two sides slightly differently. The left hand side (passenger side) I mounted the tweeter case in the middle of the mounting plate and pointed the tweeter at the car driver. The drivers side, I mounted at the rear of the plate and angled it slightly to the left (passenger side) of the driver. This was to try to get a sense of “front sound stage”.
I put the mount in once I had put the screws in to a certain depth and then screwed them into the plate. This meant that there was a gap of about an inch between the plate and the dash. It was also slightly at an angle facing forward due to the stuff under the dash, however this worked to my advantage.
Once the plate was in, I attached the case with 1 screw (drivers side) or two screws (passenger side).
Then once I tested that everything was fitting nice and solidly, I thread the wire through the holes and sat the tweeter on top of the case. Then since my tweeter has an adjustable top which swivvels to a degree, I positioned it as I had when I tested them earlier.
I gave them a final test once all hooked up to make sure the positioning was good. Then I adjusted as required and snapped the grill over the top again. This time they fit. 🙂
The system now sounds better than ever and I have properly positioned tweeters while still retaining the “Sleeper” style that I hold so dear.
Okay, there are a lot of different schools of thought on how much Dynamat you should use. They say the best bang for buck option is about 25 – 30% coverage and just putting it in the place where resonance and rattles may occur. However, after the 30% the law of diminishing returns applies, which means that the more you put on, the less extra benefit you get. 30% might give you 90% effectiveness, and 100% might give you 100% effectiveness so for the 70% extra spending, you only get about 10% better…
But, I come from the school of overkill and can’t be bothered spending the time to find the exact spots where I should be applying Dynamat, so I just covered as much as I can. On the outer shell of the door, I have covered it at around 100% (there may be slight areas where the mat doesn’t join, but it will still give it full coverage) and on the inner shell of the door, I have sealed up all the service holes and applied to resonant prone areas.
Previously, I have just Dynamatted around the speaker and behind it. This is quite often enough. But, I have to be honest and say that I have found a noticable difference in the way the speaker plays and for that I’m happy to have gone the extra mile.
So, here’s a couple of pictures of the outer skin at 100%…
And a close up….
Then, because I like overkill, I have applied a new product that Dynamat puts out called a Dynazorb. It’s designed to specifically absorb the stray frequencies that bounce out of the back of the speaker. I don’t know if it’s really worth the money (around $40 each), but I have had reports from professional installers who have tested it and they say the difference is noticable. I believe them.
Next I made sure I’d finished with all the wires and tested that the speaker and spacer fit in with the door trim and all that, then Icovered up the service holes. Now, if you don’t use Dynamat, but something similiar, beware that you can still remove it if needed. Dynamat is pretty easy to remove even after a long time, so covering the service holes that hardly are needed is not such a bad thing. However, it does wonders as far as creating a kind of enclosure for your speaker. And sounds awesome. 🙂
Firstly, take a sharpie to the door and mark all of the holes that you need to keep open. This included the door handle holes, but mostly where the door trim plugs go in. Anything that screws in need to still be able to, and will be sealed anyway once filled, so you don’t need to cover those.
I’ve marked mine with little x symbols. You won’t see them once the door trim is on, so it’s okay. The next step is pretty easy in that you just go through and cover each of the holes, cutting a larger piece than you need and sticking it over the hole. Then go through and tap on the bare areas and work out which ones are hollow sounding and whack some dynamat on there. Just cutting up small strips seems to do the trick.
The only problem areas is where the door lock rods come through. You DON’T want the Dynamat to stick to these rods and make it impossible to open/close/lock your door. So, this is how I got around it and still had as much sealing as I could.
Above is the hole with the rod sticking out of it. I’m going to make a kind of flap to seal it as much as possible.
Firstly, cut a strip that goes just past where the rod goes into the door.
Next we want to have the rest covered from the outside, but we don’t want the dynamat to stick to the rod. Work out where the rod moves and cut a second piece of Dynamat to be pressed against the back of the first, thereby creating a smooth area for the rod to move along.
Then stick that pad onto the serivce hole and try to close up the sticky ends as much as possible while leaving a free channel for the rod to move along.
Here’s a side shot…
And then here’s the finished product.
And finally, mount the speaker and you’re all done. If you want MORE overkill, you can cover the door 100%, but the key thing is the service holes on this side.
I had to butcher it a bit to fit it in nicely, but a lick of paint hides everything…
Then, the next step is to cut some closed cell foam to fit between the spacer and the speaker to hide any imperfections. This is the finished product with holes cut for the screws – if you want step by step on this let me know…
Next, make sure your wires are ready to connect and bolt the spacer onto the door.
Next step is to obviously install the speaker – remember to put the foam on first.